Osaka. The air is thick with the smell of food. We came to eat. We sought out the places locals frequent. Five of them. This is the account.
1. Tsutenkaku Motsunabe (Dotonbori)
We had intended to go to a fishing restaurant. ‘Zauo,’ it was called. They said you caught your fish, and they cooked it. It sounded like fun. But there were no tables. An hour’s wait, they told us. We didn’t wait.
We went into the building next door, ‘Tsutenkaku Motsunabe.’
It was our first meal in Osaka. A hot offal pot. A sip of Asahi beer. The beer was cold, the pot hot. The broth was a bit salty. The offal, tougher than I expected. Not quite to my taste. But it was our first day. To be sitting in an Osaka restaurant, not an office chair—that alone made it worthwhile. The staff were kind. We left in good spirits.
Location Info
- Name : Tsutenkaku Motsunabe Dotonbori
- Type : Restaurant
- Known for : Motsunabe (offal hot pot) in a Showa retro atmosphere
- Address : 1-chome-5-2 Dotonbori, Chuo Ward, Osaka, 542-0071
2. Maruzen Shokuniku-ten (Kuromon Market)
Our second day’s breakfast was at Kuromon Market. ‘Maruzen Shokuniku-ten,’ a popular spot.
We chose Kobe beef. The market was loud, crowded. The meat sizzled on the grill. The aroma was good. One bite. Delicious. But the price tag gave me a slight surprise. I suppose I’d underestimated market prices. My wife disliked crowds. The meat was good, but we made a quick exit.
Location Info
- Name : Maruzen Shokuniku-ten
- Type : Butcher Shop/Restaurant
- Known for : Kobe beef, Wagyu beef, grilling meat on the spot
- Address : 2 Chome-2-20 Nipponbashi, Chuo Ward, Osaka, 542-0073 (within Kuromon Market)
3. Maguroya Kurogin (Kuromon Market)
Right next to Maruzen was ‘Maguroya Kurogin.’
We ordered the maguro sanshokudon—a three-color tuna bowl. The tuna’s color was vivid. Thick slices over rice. It was also delicious. But this was still the market. Still hectic all around. We had to eat our excellent tuna in a rush. If you want a quiet place, you’d be better off elsewhere. I heard they offer discounts at closing time. Next time, I’ll try going late.
Location Info
- Name : Maguroya Kurogin
- Type : Restaurant/Seafood Shop
- Known for : Fresh tuna (maguro) bowls, sashimi, sushi
- Address : 2 Chome-11-1 Nipponbashi, Chuo Ward, Osaka, 542-0073 (within Kuromon Market)
4. Harukoma Sushi (Tenjinbashisuji Shopping Street)
We rented bicycles in Umeda. Pedaled to ‘Harukoma Sushi.’ It was late, but the line was long. A quiet Japanese family stood ahead of us. The restaurant was small and full, yet strangely not loud. Each group’s conversation respected the others’ space. The chefs were lively. One gently corrected my clumsy Japanese. But they were serious about their craft.
The nigirizushi arrived. The amount of rice was just right, the fish generous. It melted in the mouth. The uni gunkanmaki was a slight disappointment. But all complaints vanished when the bill came. The price was unbelievable. On the way back, feeling a bit wistful, we bought some okonomiyaki to go from a nearby place. Evidently, our appetites were still not satisfied.
Location Info
- Name : Harukoma Sushi (Main Store)
- Type : Sushi restaurant
- Known for : Affordable and generously portioned sushi, popular with locals
- Address : 5 Chome-5-2 Tenjinbashi, Kita Ward, Osaka, 530-0041 (within Tenjinbashisuji Shopping Street)
5. North Shore Cafe & Dining (Kitahama)
Before heading to Kyoto, we needed breakfast. We looked for a place open early. ‘North Shore’ opened at 7 AM.
A cafe by the river in the Kitahama area. The view was good. The food, too. We waited forty minutes. It was worth the wait.
The food served was vibrant. Fresh vegetables and fruit. Bread. Coffee. It all came together perfectly. I’d never had brunch like it. The ingredients, the presentation, the atmosphere, and even the price. The most expensive item was 1,400 yen. The staff answered every request with a smile. That kindness enhanced the food. It was the best breakfast we had in Osaka.
Location Info
- Name : North Shore Cafe & Dining
- Type : Cafe/Restaurant
- Known for : Healthy and photogenic brunch, riverside terrace, fresh fruit and vegetable dishes
- Address : 1F Biruma Building, 1-1-28 Kitahama, Chuo-ku, Osaka-shi, Osaka 541-0041
Osaka has countless restaurants. The places we visited were just a handful. Food leaves memories. And those memories can draw you back to a city.