Gyeongbokgung. Time fades along its stone walls. Behind the palace’s quiet, the alleys hold life stories. I walked where my feet led. Hunger came. These are the Gyeongbokgung food spots I found, seen through local eyes.
Seochon, A Small Piece of Warmth: Petit Tong
Near Gyeongbokgung Station. Deep in a Seochon alley lies Petit Tong. A small bakery. An old place. Those who know Gastro Tong or La Suisse will recognize the name. Takeout only. I ordered a sandwich. They made it fresh. While I waited, I picked out some bread. The baking schedule was on the wall. If you have a favorite, you should check the schedule.
Today, the olive ciabatta was sold out. They made the sandwich with squid ink ciabatta. It was good. The bread was dark, but the filling was generous. The ham was made with pork sourced directly from Tongin Market. Crisp vegetables. It was heavy. Enough for lunch.
I also picked up a scone. I’d heard it was good. Befitting a Swiss bakery, Zopf bread was there too. Sunday bread, they said, eaten after church. Granola, muesli, and olives were also available. A few bottles of wine stood on one side. I had just bought wine, so I only glanced.
They say the cake here is delicious. Swiss carrot cake. Organic carrots. No flour. Gluten-free. If you want cake but must avoid gluten, this is the place. Lasagna, hummus, and other savory items were available. They come from the sister restaurant, so the quality is assured. Good to pair with some bread for a meal.
I came home and unwrapped the bread. A Swiss walnut tart. Filled generously with walnut caramel. A dessert from the Engadine region of Switzerland, they said. The texture was pleasant. Caramel and walnuts. Nutty and sweet. It went well with coffee.
Location Info
- Name: Petit Tong(쁘띠통)
- Type: Bakery
- Known for: Sandwiches, vegan bread, gluten-free cakes, Swiss-style pastries
- Address: 40-1 Jahamun-ro, Cheongunhyoja-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul, South Korea
- Operating Hours: Mon-Sat 9:30 AM – 8:30 PM, Sun 9:30 AM – 7:30 PM
Samcheongdong, The Comfort of Hot Soup: Dora Bowl
Near the National Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art. Within walking distance from the Seoul Museum of Craft Art. Dora Bowl. It serves soup curry. A taste I remember from Sapporo. The restaurant originated in Busan before opening a branch in Seoul. The atmosphere is comfortable. The bar seats are good for solo diners. Tables for groups.
Expect a line at lunchtime. It’s better to go a little early. It opens at 11:30 AM. Arrive even five minutes late, and the bar seats will likely be taken. You can choose the spiciness of the soup curry, from level 1 to level 6. If your curry has meat, level 2 is about right. It’s tasty even if not spicy.
I looked at the menu. Prices range from 10,000 to 20,000 won. If you like vegetables, the assorted mushroom, 17-vegetable, or 18-vegetable options are good choices. You can add toppings. I ordered the mushroom curry with shiitake, oyster, and king oyster mushrooms. I also ordered the chicken with 17 kinds of vegetables. A varied selection of vegetables arrived. The soup curry is thin, like a broth.
The rice is served separately. The portion is adequate. Next time, I want to try it with coconut milk. An egg or a seared cheese topping would also be a nice addition. The curry with chicken thigh was a bit oily. Next time, I’ll order a vegetable base and add toppings. There’s also a place to hang coats. Worth a visit after the museum or a walk in Samcheongdong. Not an amazing Gyeongbokgung culinary highlight, but a solid choice.
Location Info
- Name: Dora Bowl(도라보울)
- Type: Restaurant
- Known for: Japanese-style soup curry
- Address: Yulgok-ro 3-gil, Jongno-gu, Seoul
- Operating Hours: 11:30 AM – 9:00 PM(near the National Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art in Samcheongdong/Sogyeokdong)
Cheongundong, The Strength of a Hearty Meal: Jahamun-ro 118 Deulpul
Between Gyeongbokgung Station and Buamdong. In Cheongundong. Opposite Cheongun Elementary School. Jahamun-ro 118 Deulpul. A place known for its sotbap (pot rice). There’s a parking lot on the right side of the building. Parking is precious in this neighborhood. All menu items are available for takeout.
Inside, it was cool. Air conditioning. There were many private rooms. Good for a quiet meal. I went right at opening time. The food came out quickly, and the restaurant was clean.
I asked about their most popular dishes: pine mushroom sotbap and galbijjim (braised short ribs). Today, I ordered two servings of pine mushroom sotbap. Light and healthy. Basic side dishes arrived: warm jeon (pancakes), cold muk (jelly), seasoned vegetables, and other salads. The number of dishes was just right. Doenjang jjigae (soybean paste stew) was also served. The side dishes were generally pleasing. A good Korean restaurant for foreigners too.
The main sotbap. Full of nutritious ingredients. The sungnyung (scorched rice water) was particularly delicious, even though I don’t usually enjoy sungnyung. This kind of sotbap, served with various side dishes, is our Korean style. This must be why tourists visiting Cheong Wa Dae or Gyeongbokgung Palace often come here. Apparently, many hikers from Bugaksan Mountain also visit on weekends. A filling meal. I felt nourished.
Location Info
- Name: Jahamun-ro 118 Deulpul (자하문로118 들풀)
- Type: Restaurant
- Known for: Sotbap (Korean pot rice), Hansik (Korean set meals)
- Address: 118 Jahamun-ro, Cheongunhyoja-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul, South Korea
- Operating Hours: 11:30 AM – 9:00 PM (Closed every Monday)
Seochon, The Deep Taste of an Old Alley: Yonggeumok
After exercising, I was hungry. To restore my energy, I sought out chueotang (loach soup). I headed to Yonggeumok. A place that’s stood here since 1932. Here, you can taste Seoul-style chueotang. I’d only ever had Namdo-style, so today was for Seoul-style. The restaurant even appears in Chef Park Chan-il’s book. There’s a story that a North Korean defector once asked, “Is Yonggeumok still doing well?”
You can choose between Seoul-style and Namdo-style. I ordered Seoul-style. This place became famous for its Seoul-style. The price was 12,000 won. The menu also offered jeon and fried loach—good choices if you’re with a group. Reservations and takeout are possible.
The side dishes were kkakdugi (radish kimchi), yeolmu kimchi (young radish kimchi), and sukju namul (mung bean sprouts). All tasted fresh and delicious. I asked for more yeolmu and sukju. The Seoul-style chueotang arrived. It had yubu (fried tofu pockets) and dubu (tofu) in it. Unique. Somewhere between chueotang and yukgaejang (spicy beef soup), but closer to chueotang. It was spicy, but without any distinct fishy smell. I finished the whole bowl. As I left, I noticed it was a Michelin Guide restaurant.
Location Info
- Name: Yonggeumok (용금옥)
- Type: Restaurant
- Known for: Seoul-style Chueotang (loach soup)
- Address: 41-2 Jahamun-ro, Tongin-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul, South Korea
Samcheongdong, A Meal Amidst Autumn Scenery: Cheongsujeong
Autumn in Samcheongdong is beautiful. Ginkgo leaves scatter. Cheongsujeong. It’s long been known for its honghapbap (mussel rice). Many foreigners and elderly visitors frequent the place. Between Anguk Station and Gyeongbokgung Station. It’s a bit of a walk from Anguk Station. I wouldn’t recommend walking on especially hot or cold days.
Many people order the honghapbap jeongsik (set meal) or dosirak (lunchbox). Today, I ordered the jeongsik. 18,000 won. Various side dishes were served, hansik style: stew, a little bulgogi, cucumber salad, muk, Codium (a type of seaweed), and windbreak greens. Grilled fish, salted octopus, and fernbrake salad were also served. There were also ham and smoked duck.
The star was the honghapbap. There weren’t as many mussels as depicted in photos. The rice was lightly stir-fried, with most of its moisture gone. The honghapbap itself is a delicacy. But for the price, satisfaction was a little low. Old photos showed freshly made jeon, but ham is served now instead. It would be much better if just a few of the side dishes were improved. Next time, I’ll try the dosirak. That might offer better value. The meal was so-so, but the falling ginkgo leaves made me feel good.
Location Info
- Name: Cheongsujeong (청수정)
- Type: Restaurant
- Known for: Honghapbap (mussel rice) set meals
- Address: 91 Samcheong-ro, Samcheong-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul, South Korea
Around Gyeongbokgung Palace. The old and the new mix. Unchanging tastes and changing scenery. A full stomach gives strength to walk again. That’s all.