Cheonggyecheon Stream. The water still flows. People walk beside it. The wind blows. I was hungry. These are the places my feet found. This is the record.
1. Cafe Onion, Gwangjang Market Branch
Gwangjang Market. Cafe Onion was there, inside. Cheonggyecheon-ro 215, 1st floor. Jongno 5-ga. A market corner. To the left of the CU convenience store. Across from Bangsan Market, near an entrance to Gwangjang Market. A familiar path. The same entrance I’d used for nurungji dakgangjeong – scorched rice chicken. It used to be a gold shop. Onion always tries to blend into the local scene. It was no different this time.
The sign. It was unique. I wondered what it looked like lit up. It seemed connected to the interior lights. I went inside. The space was small. Cardboard boxes. Packing tape. The decor used materials common in the market. The menu was also on cardboard. Their desire to meld with the market was clear. They used the upper space too. I wondered what would happen in a downpour, or a strong wind.
They had merchandise. Coffee beans, tea bags. Packing tape for sale too. A paper flower decoration. By Nanan, the artist? I wasn’t sure. The coffee bar was impressive. I don’t have a good photo. A pity.
The pastry pizza. I was alone. There wasn’t much room to sit. So I passed. Pizza made with pastry dough. Served with strawberry jam, they said. Sold by the slice too. It looked very flaky. My husband dislikes that kind of thing. He prefers the nurungji dakgangjeong from the stall next door.
There were few seats. A small bar table. Not a place to linger. It was open because the weather was good; it would be closed off in winter. It might feel cramped then. The chairs were plastic stools, the kind you find at market kalguksu(knife-cut noodle) stalls. They could be uncomfortable. Not for sitting long.
A hazelnut latte. They call your name when the drink is ready, like at other branches. The taste. I’ll skip that. That’s how I remember Cafe Onion at Gwangjang Market.
Location Info
- Name: Cafe Onion Gwangjang Market
- Type: Cafe
- Known for: Unique market-themed ambiance, pastries (like the pastry pizza), coffee. Part of the popular Cafe Onion chain.
- Address: 1st Floor, 215 Cheonggyecheon-ro, Jongno-gu, Seoul, South Korea
- Operating Hours: 11:00 AM – 7:00 PM
- Parking: Not available. Use nearby public parking or Eulji Twin Tower parking (free for the day with a purchase over ₩5,000, an 8-9 min walk).
2. Sabal, Gwanghwamun Branch
Near Gwanghwamun Station. Naesu-dong 72. Sabal. It was in a shopping arcade. An acquaintance treated me to a meal. I went with a local resident. It was neat, with a modern atmosphere. It had been featured on Suyo Misikhoe(Wednesday Foodie Club), a TV show. A well-known restaurant in this area. Seemed like a decent place to take guests or for an appointment. The menu, the mood.
Noodles seemed to be the main thing. Noodles, rice, side dishes. The prices were not cheap.
The basic side dishes included pickled rakkyo(Chinese onion) salad. Most dishes were single-bowl meals, so many side dishes weren’t needed.
Chamnamul(a Korean green) shrimp dubanjang(spicy bean sauce) bibim-guksu. ₩13,500. Even with shrimp, it was pricey for bibim-guksu.
Hongcho-gye(red vinegar chicken) naeng-guksu. ₩14,000. A summery dish with chicken. Sour and spicy noodles.
Mushroom black sesame deulkkae-tang(perilla seed soup) guksu. ₩14,000. Slightly salty. A popular taste that those who like perilla seeds would likely enjoy.
As a side, grilled pork jowl with chamnamul and napa cabbage salad. ₩29,000. You could also order spicy whelk salad. This place used a lot of chamnamul. The side dishes were well-conceived, good additions if noodles or rice alone weren’t enough.
Overall, the price range was high. The tableware, the service. These things were likely factored into the price. If you dislike that, you might leave unsatisfied. If you’re willing to pay more for a clean, pleasant environment, rather than focusing only on cost, it could be a good place. I ate the food. I was treated. That was all.
Location Info
- Name: Sabal(Gwanghwamun Branch)
- Type: Restaurant
- Known for: Modern Korean noodle dishes, clean ambiance. Featured on <Suyo Misikhoe>.
- Address: 72 Naesu-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul, South Korea
(Note: The original source indicated potential relocation or closure. Current status should be verified before visiting.)
3. Baekje Jeongyukjeom (Baekje Butchery & Restaurant)
Near Jongno 5-ga Station. Hyoje-dong. Jongno 35-gil 34. In a narrow alley. Baekje Jeongyukjeom. An old place. Famous for yukhoe(beef tartare). A nopo – a long-standing establishment. I visited after a long time. I got takeout today. They included an ice pack. Takeout is fine if you’re nearby. Though there’s a certain charm to eating in a rustic place.
This place is very old. The taste and quantity are good for the price. That’s why people have come here for a long time. The menu: beef dishes and yukhoe. They use yuk-u(beef from dairy cattle, generally less expensive than Hanwoo). That keeps the prices down. Many people like the taste of yuk-u these days. One doesn’t always have to eat Hanwoo.
The interior is old. Some reviews mention lax management. But the quantity and taste seem to make up for it. Yukhoe bibimbap. People say it’s very generous even if you don’t order the ‘special’ size. There was a yukhoe bibimbap in front of me; I just took a picture. I didn’t try it.
Since it’s fundamentally a butchery, many people also order cuts of meat. The prices seem very reasonable.
Yukhoe. 500 grams for ₩33,000. The garlic flavor was stronger than at other places. The seasoning was also slightly different. The people I shared it with liked it. Even divided into two plates, it was overflowing. Yes, the quantity was ample.
When the COVID situation settles, I plan to go to the restaurant and try the bibimbap. I’m curious about the taste.
Location Info
- Name: Baekje Jeongyukjeom (Baekje Butchery & Restaurant)
- Type: Restaurant (specializing in Yukhoe and beef)
- Known for: Generous portions of yukhoe(beef tartare) and yukhoe bibimbap at reasonable prices, long-standing establishment (nopo).
- Address: 34 Jong-ro 35-gil, Jongno-gu, Seoul, South Korea
- Operating Hours: 11:30 AM – 10:30 PM (Takeout available)
- Parking: Not available (use nearby parking)
Along the Cheonggyecheon path, or in the alleys nearby, I found these restaurants. Each had its own character. The wind blew, the water flowed. The food remains in memory. That was enough.